THINGS TO CONSIDER BEFORE BUYING GOLF CLUBS Determining A Basic Set While there are variations, golfers buying a basic set of clubs should include the following: (You are not supposed to carry more than 14 clubs in your bag at any one time-that's a USGA regulation.) --Two or Three Woods a driver and two fairway woods (a 3- and 5-wood are common). Consider adding a 7-wood. --Eight Irons. A set traditionally includes a 3- through 9-iron plus a pitching wedge Many golfers do not carry the longer 3- and 4-irons. Instead, they carry an additional fairway wood(s). --Additional Wedges. Sand wedge (55-57 degree loft). Choose between a lob wedge (60-64 degree loft) or a gap wedge (50-53 degree loft) --Putter. Putters are usually sold separately from full sets to allow the golfer to choose his or her own style. --Determining the Type of Club. Various shafts, club head compositions and designs make it possible to select a combination to suit every individual's golf game. --The Shaft Materials. Golf club shafts now come primarily in two materials--steel or graphite. --Steel Shafts Are stronger, more durable and generally less expensive Offer greater consistency from shaft to shaft. May offer more control on shots, but require a faster swing speed to generate the same distance as graphite. Are recommended for stronger players who could use a little extra control in their game. --Graphite Shafts. Are generally lighter than steel and can be made in many more variations. Are generally more expensive than steel and less durable. Are lighter allowing greater swing speed for more power, but may sacrifice some control. Are better at absorbing shock sent back through the club after impact. --Flex (Flex refers to the amount of "bend or whip" in a shaft. Your shaft flex needs to match with the speed of your golf swing). Beginners and players with less powerful swings will benefit from a more flexible shaft. An average player has a swing speed of 75-90 mph, and should look for a regular shaft. Players with powerful swings - in the 90 -110 mph range - should purchase a stiff or firm shaft. This will provide a stiffer club for more control. Many shafts are now available in a uniflex that will fit most any golfer's swing. How To Buy A Driver/Fairway Wood The woods are used for the long shots in golf. Drivers are used exclusively off the tee, while fairway woods are used anywhere on the course where a shot requires some distance, including often off the tee on tighter, more controlled shots. --Choosing The Right Driver. Various club head and shaft compositions and designs make it possible to select the right driver to suit your golf game. --Choosing the Right Club Head Size. There are three general club head sizes for woods; *Standard Measures about 150-155 cubic centimeters. Provides better control but a smaller sweet spot. *Midsize Sized between standard and oversized. Measures about 195 cubic centimeters. Offers a combination of benefits with a medium-sized sweet spot and lighter weight than an oversized head. *Oversized The largest club head size, (up to 300+ cubic centimeters). Offers largest sweet spot of any head size. More difficult to control and slightly heavier than the smaller club head variations. Materials There are now two basic choices in the materials. The choice is really one of an individual golfer's preference for look and feel. --Stainless Steel. Is less expensive but slightly heavier than the more modern titanium and other alloys. Offers a more traditional look and feel because of the slightly smaller head (necessary because of the heavier weight). --Titanium Is lighter weight which allows for the creation of even larger club heads Has a larger sweet spot. Is more forgiving on miss-hits. Choosing the Right Loft for your Driver. Loft is the measure of the angle of the face of the club head. The greater the loft, the greater the angle on the face of the club head and the more control but less distance The less loft, the greater the distance, but at the risk of less control Generally, a driver club head loft is between 8-12 degrees. The slower you swing the club, the higher loft you will need. *Slow swing - 10.5-12 degree loft. *Average swing - 9.5-10.5 loft. *Fast swing - 8-9.5 loft. Choosing The Right Fairway Woods Fairway woods are increasingly popular as an alternative to both drivers off the tee and to hard-to-hit long irons such as the 2-, 3- or 4-iron. Three factors are involved that make fairway woods a preferred club for many golfers. The average player feels better standing over a long fairway shot with a longer, lower profile wood rather than the harder-to-hit long iron. A lower center of gravity makes it easier to get the ball in the air out of the fairway, rough or sand The larger club head compared to a long iron provides more distance without overswinging, increasing control as well as length. Fairway woods vs. long irons Here is a simple guide to replacing a long iron with a fairway wood. 5-wood = 2-iron 7-wood = 3- or 4-iron 9-wood = 5-iron How to Buy Irons Irons are used for shorter golf shots, ranging from 200 yards to less than 100 yards. The iron that is used is determined, by the loft of the club head as well as the golfer's ability to hit the ball a certain distance. Improved technology allows golfers to select the type of iron that best suits his or her game. --Choosing The Right Iron. Various shafts and club head compositions and designs make it possible to select the right combination to suit every individual's golf game. --Types of Irons *Cast Irons Have a cavity back construction, also known as perimeter weighting. Has most of the head weight around the outside of the head. Has a larger sweet spot because it puts more weight on the edges of the club face. Are better for beginners who tend to miss-hit the ball more often. Cavity back/perimeter weighted irons are more forgiving. *Forged Irons Have no special weight distribution on the back of the club head. Center of gravity is in the center of the club head. Usually have the weight higher in the face, allowing the advanced player to better control trajectory. Offer more accurate feedback on miss-hits. Choosing the Right Club Head --Sizes *Standard Similar to the smaller sizes of traditional clubs. Offers better control for an advanced player. *Midsize Combination of traditional and oversized irons. Offer a bigger sweet spot than standard clubs. Easier to handle than the oversized clubs. *Oversized More forgiving on miss-hits. More difficult to control for a better player. --Materials *Stainless Steel Most cavity-back irons are cast iron, which makes them good for less-advanced players looking for durability and consistency. Many of today's cast clubs can offer similar, if not better playability than forged Forged irons are made of a softer steel, which provides better feel to more advanced players *Titanium Lighter weight allows titanium heads to be made larger than traditional steel heads. Larger heads provide more forgiveness on miss-hits. Titanium is more expensive than steel. Types of Wedges There are basically four types of wedges. Golfers should carry at least three of them. --Pitching Wedge Generally has a loft of 46-51 degrees. Used for "longer" wedge shots from 125 yards or closer. Generally included in most golf club sets. --Sand Wedge For use primarily out of the sand, but also for closer shots requiring significant height Sand wedges generally have a loft of 55-57 degrees. --Gap Wedge Between 51-53 degrees loft. Becoming increasingly popular because of the gap difference between the traditional set of irons and a sand wedge. It is basically a compromise between a pitching wedge and a sand wedge . --Lob Wedge Used for finesse shots over an obstacle and onto the green. Commonly 60-64 degrees loft. The higher the loft, the higher the ball will go in the air, but the less distance. Shafts Most shafts for all types of wedges are steel, primarily because of its durability. Steel shafts are preferred for wedges because their heavier weight helps control of the shot. Tips on Choosing a Putter There is nothing more personal to a golfer than his or her putter is. Golfers of all levels live or die by their putting ability, and the choice of a putter is as much by personal preference of style, look and weight as it is by technology. There are, however, certain guidelines that can help you in your selection of a putter. --Types of Putters There are a number of basic types of putters. *Blades Narrow and flat. Give the best feel for the ball when putting. Usually preferred by low handicappers. Blades differ in where the shaft enters the head, either at the heel (the classic putter) or center shafted, where it enters more in the middle of the blade. *Mallets Has a large, rounded head . The weight is usually balanced throughout the club, which provides golfers with a more consistent putting stroke. *Perimeter Weighted A very forgiving design where the weight is distributed around the edges. Provides for a larger sweet spot because the perimeter weighting stabilizes any slight miss-hits. *Insert Designed with composite inserts made of a softer material. Provide for a better feel on the putt and a smoother role. The insert is in the face of the putter, therefore neatly defining each club's sweet spot. *Offset The actual putter blade is placed back from the shaft slightly. Allows the golfer's eyes to be more directly on top of the ball when standing over the putt. This increases top spin for a truer roll.